![]() ![]() (total of both rear corners) = total rear weight (R) (total of both front corners) = total front weight (F) The more you increase the front bias number, the more steering you will find. My truck in the picture totals out at just over eight pounds, with a front weight bias of 47.8%, and rear bias of 52.2%. This way you can measure one corner at a time, and then total up your readings.Ī good starting point for weight bias (front to rear) is 47%-front bias, and 53%-rear bias. When only using one scale, place the scale under one corner at a time, while the other three wheels are propped up by a solid object of the same height as the scale. Multiple digital scales like these can be pretty pricey. The scale set (below) is an elaborate one and not totally necessary to get the information you need. Keeping track of your truck's weight will give you a good idea of what needs to be done to get your chassis where it needs to be. This also helped keep the chassis flat off of high-speed jumps. This helped with steering and improved handling when using engines that generated a lot of torque. of lead (tire weight tabs) to the front skid plate. This photo shows where I mounted two ounces. Adding weight to specific areas can help. Sometimes you need to get just a little bit more out of your chassis. This also works for items like toe links and push rods. For example, if you want to reduce the weight at the rear of the chassis, but not at the front, you can replace just the rear pivot balls with a set of aluminum pivot balls. It's a good way to shed some weight in a specific area. You may choose to replace steel components with aluminum counterparts, like the pivot ball (#4933X) in this photo. There are many items that can be removed or swapped with lighter versions of the same item. There are different ways to achieve desired results. So much can be gained from correct balance. I measure the front to rear weight bias on all of my race vehicles. This will change the feel of the truck, and better suit your driving style or track conditions. However, when you get down to less than eight pounds, you may try moving some of the weight around to different areas of the truck. Most everyone knows that removing unnecessary items such as the starting system, and the reverse components will knock off the ounces. ![]() This weight range offers a good balance between response and stability. I've found that 7.5 to 8.0 pounds is a great range for the Revo. Sometimes, removing too much weight can cause the truck to be unstable. Removing weight is common for making a more responsive race truck. This helps balance the chassis after removing the EZ-Start® electric starting system from the engine. ![]() I place my steering servo on the left side (drivers side). This will save a little bit of weight and will leave you the choice of mounting the servo on the left or the right-hand side of the chassis. of torque, so only one servo can be used. I recommend using a servo with at least 110oz. The twin stock servo set-up is great for bashing and novice-level racing, but when facing the demands of competitive off-road racing, a high-powered/high-speed servo is what you'll need to transition from left to right-hand corners quickly. Be careful not to over-grind this area because this is where the two rear suspension pins are captured for the front suspension arms. This can slow steering response and limit range when under acceleration. When the suspension is fully extended, the inner rod ends on the steering links may rub against the bulkhead halves in the areas indicated below. Eliminate the interference between the rod ends and the bulkhead You shouldn't need to remove any more material than what is shown in the photo.Ĥ. Remove material, as needed, to get full range from the bellcrank (left to right). Right - This photo shows how the bellcrank and the hinge pin retainer meet after the mod.Īfter substantially increasing the range of the steering bellcrank, the part of the arm that connects to the servo will now interfere with the outside of the hinge pin retainer, where it mounts to the bulkhead (See photo). Left - Grinding the edges indicated in the photo can easily be accomplished with a Dremel? tool. ![]()
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